:root{color-scheme:light;--paper:#f6f4ed;--ink:#292e29;--muted:#74796e;--jade:#4c6b59;--accent:#aa4b3f;--line:#dcded3;--wash:#eeeee5;--serif:Georgia,'Noto Serif', 'Songti SC',serif;--sans:-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',sans-serif}html[data-theme=dark]{color-scheme:dark;--paper:#191f1c;--ink:#e4e5db;--muted:#a4ad9f;--jade:#a0bda6;--accent:#d58c77;--line:#354238;--wash:#222c25}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:2rem}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:16px/1.7 var(--sans);-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}a:hover{color:var(--jade)}button,input{font:inherit}a,button,input{touch-action:manipulation}a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,input:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--accent);outline-offset:5px}::selection{background:var(--jade);color:var(--paper)}.site-wrap{max-width:1120px;padding:0 48px;margin:auto}.site-header{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:30px;padding:34px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:14px;font:23px/1.25 var(--serif);white-space:nowrap}.brand small{display:block;font:10px/1.5 var(--sans);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:2px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:5px}.seal{display:block;background:var(--accent);color:var(--paper);font:18px/1.1 var(--serif);padding:6px 7px;border-radius:2px;transform:rotate(-3deg)}nav{display:flex;gap:27px}.site-header nav{font-size:13px}.site-header nav a{position:relative;color:var(--muted)}.site-header nav a[aria-current]{color:var(--ink)}.site-header nav a[aria-current]:after{content:'';position:absolute;width:4px;height:4px;background:var(--accent);border-radius:50%;bottom:-12px;left:calc(50% - 2px)}.header-tools{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:18px}.header-tools svg{width:19px;height:19px;display:block}.header-tools button{border:0;background:none;color:var(--ink);cursor:pointer;padding:6px}.intro{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.15fr 1fr;gap:24px;align-items:center;padding:72px 0 63px}.eyebrow{font:10px/1.6 var(--sans);font-weight:500;letter-spacing:2px;color:var(--jade);margin:0 0 24px}.eyebrow>span:first-child:empty{display:inline-block;width:18px;height:1px;background:var(--jade);vertical-align:middle;margin-right:8px}h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400}h1{font-size:clamp(38px,4.5vw,56px);letter-spacing:-1.7px;line-height:1.16;margin:0 0 24px}.intro-description{font-size:14px;line-height:1.9;color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 25px}.text-link{font-size:12px;color:var(--jade);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding-bottom:6px}.text-link span{margin-left:15px}.landscape{color:var(--jade);position:relative;align-self:end;padding-bottom:7px}.landscape svg{width:100%;display:block}.landscape .sun{fill:var(--accent);opacity:.75}.landscape-sign 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img{transform:scale(1.025)}.entry-text-only{grid-template-columns:1fr}.pagination{justify-content:space-between;padding:32px 0 0;font-size:12px;color:var(--jade)}.pagination>span{color:var(--muted)}.site-footer{border-top:1px solid var(--line);display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;padding:29px 0 35px;font-size:10px;color:var(--muted)}.site-footer p{margin:0}.site-footer>div{display:flex;gap:20px}.footer-dot{margin:0 8px}.page-heading{padding:65px 0 30px;max-width:750px}.page-heading h1{font-size:49px}.section-description{color:var(--muted);font-size:16px}.section-description p{margin:0}.page-heading+.journal{padding-top:0}.single{max-width:720px;margin:0 auto;padding:65px 0 50px}.article-header{margin-bottom:40px}.article-header h1{font-size:48px;line-height:1.2}.reading-time{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted)}.prose{font:18px/1.9 var(--serif);overflow-wrap:anywhere}.prose p{margin:0 0 1.5em}.prose h1,.prose h2{font-size:30px;line-height:1.3;margin-top:1.6em}.prose h3{font-size:24px}.prose a{color:var(--jade);text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px}.prose img,.prose video{max-width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:3px}.prose img{display:block;margin:auto}.prose em{color:var(--muted)}.prose blockquote{border-left:2px solid var(--jade);margin:28px 0;padding:0 25px;color:var(--muted)}.prose hr{border:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin:35px 0}.prose pre{padding:20px;overflow:auto;font:13px/1.7 monospace;background:var(--wash);border-radius:3px}.prose :not(pre)>code{font-size:.8em;background:var(--wash);padding:2px 5px}.prose table{border-collapse:collapse;display:block;overflow:auto}.prose td,.prose th{border:1px solid var(--line);padding:8px 12px}.tags{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px;margin:35px 0}.tags a{font-size:11px;padding:5px 12px;background:var(--wash);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:2px}.comments{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:40px;padding-top:20px}.comments h2{font-size:25px}.post-navigation{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:30px;margin-top:40px;justify-content:space-between;gap:30px}.post-navigation a{flex:1;font:18px/1.5 var(--serif)}.post-navigation a:last-child{text-align:right}.post-navigation small{display:block;font:10px var(--sans);color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:10px}.page-heading label{display:block;color:var(--muted);font-size:14px;margin-bottom:20px}input[type=search]{width:100%;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--wash);padding:16px;color:var(--ink);border-radius:3px}#search-status{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}.search-results{padding-bottom:50px;min-height:200px}.search-results article{padding:20px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.search-results h2{font-size:26px;margin:5px 0}.search-results p{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);margin:0}.skip{position:absolute;top:-100px;left:20px;padding:10px;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);z-index:5}.skip:focus{top:10px}@media(min-width:1400px){.site-wrap{max-width:1200px}.intro{padding-top:85px;padding-bottom:75px}}@media(max-width:900px){.site-wrap{padding:0 30px}.site-header{gap:20px}.site-header nav{gap:17px}.brand{font-size:21px}.intro{padding:55px 0}.intro-description br{display:none}.entry{gap:30px;grid-template-columns:1fr 190px}.paths{gap:18px}.paths>a+a{padding-left:18px}.paths h2{font-size:17px}.paths p{font-size:10px}.path-number{display:none}.site-footer{flex-wrap:wrap}}@media(max-width:640px){.site-wrap{padding:0 22px}.site-header{flex-wrap:wrap;padding:23px 0;row-gap:25px}.brand{font-size:22px;flex:1}.site-header nav{order:3;width:100%;justify-content:space-between;gap:12px;font-size:12px}.header-tools{gap:16px}.intro{grid-template-columns:1fr;padding:43px 0 28px;gap:5px}.intro h1{font-size:46px}.eyebrow{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:1.6px;margin-bottom:20px}.intro-description{font-size:14px;max-width:330px}.landscape{max-width:340px;width:90%;justify-self:center;margin-top:15px}.landscape>span{font-size:10px}.paths{grid-template-columns:1fr;padding:7px 0;gap:0}.paths>a{padding:17px 0}.paths>a+a{border-left:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-left:0}.path-number{display:block}.paths h2{font-size:19px;margin:0}.paths p{font-size:11px}.journal{padding-top:35px}.section-heading h2{font-size:24px}.section-heading>span{font-size:9px}.entry{grid-template-columns:1fr 100px;gap:18px;padding:28px 0;align-items:start}.entry-image{margin-top:27px}.entry-image img{height:110px}.entry h3{font-size:23px}.entry p{font-size:12px}.entry-meta{font-size:9px}.entry-meta>span{margin:0 5px}.entry-text-only{grid-template-columns:1fr}.site-footer{font-size:10px;padding-top:25px;gap:15px}.site-footer>div{gap:18px;flex-wrap:wrap}.page-heading{padding-top:45px}.page-heading h1,.article-header h1{font-size:36px;letter-spacing:-1px}.single{padding-top:43px}.prose{font-size:17px;line-height:1.85}.article-header{margin-bottom:28px}.post-navigation{flex-direction:column}.post-navigation a:last-child{text-align:left}}@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*,*:before,*:after{transition:none!important}}@media print{.site-header nav,.header-tools,.comments,.site-footer,.post-navigation{display:none}body{background:white;color:black}.site-wrap{max-width:none}.prose a{color:inherit}}
/* Use the operating system preference even when scripting is unavailable. */
@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){html:not([data-theme]){color-scheme:dark;--paper:#191f1c;--ink:#e4e5db;--muted:#a4ad9f;--jade:#a0bda6;--accent:#d58c77;--line:#354238;--wash:#222c25}}

.intro-divider{border:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin:0}

/* Pure Comments supplies markup; keep its styles scoped to the embed. */
#comments{font-size:14px;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
#comments .comments-header h2{margin:0 0 20px}
#comments .comment-item{padding:24px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);min-width:0}
#comments .comment-header{display:flex;align-items:baseline;justify-content:space-between;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px 16px}
#comments .comment-meta{display:flex;align-items:center;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px}
#comments time{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted)}
#comments .comment-badge{font-size:10px;color:var(--jade);background:var(--wash);padding:2px 7px;border-radius:3px}
#comments .comment-body{line-height:1.8;margin:12px 0}
#comments .comment-body p{margin:0 0 12px}
#comments .comment-body a,#comments .comment-privacy-link a{color:var(--jade);text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}
#comments .comment-body img{max-width:100%;height:auto}
#comments .comment-body pre{max-width:100%;overflow:auto;padding:12px;background:var(--wash)}
#comments .comment-body blockquote{margin:16px 0;padding-left:16px;border-left:2px solid var(--line);color:var(--muted)}
#comments .comment-children{margin:20px 0 0 20px;padding-left:20px;border-left:2px solid var(--line)}
#comments .comment-children>.comment-item:last-child{border-bottom:0;padding-bottom:0}
#comments button{cursor:pointer;font:inherit;border-radius:3px}
#comments .button{padding:10px 18px;border:1px solid var(--jade);background:var(--jade);color:var(--paper);justify-self:start}
#comments .button:hover{filter:brightness(.92)}
#comments .comment-actions button,#comments .replying-to button{padding:3px 0;border:0;background:none;color:var(--jade);font-size:12px;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}
#comments .comments-form{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr);gap:18px;margin-top:32px;padding-top:24px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
#comments .comments-form h3{font-size:23px;margin:0}
#comments .comments-form label{display:grid;gap:6px;font-size:13px;min-width:0}
#comments .comments-form label input,#comments textarea{display:block;width:100%;min-width:0;padding:10px 12px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:3px;background:var(--wash);color:var(--ink);font:16px/1.5 var(--sans)}
#comments textarea{resize:vertical}
#comments textarea:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--accent);outline-offset:3px}
#comments .comment-privacy-link,#comments .form-status{margin:0;font-size:12px}
#comments .form-status:empty{display:none}
#comments .form-status.success{color:var(--jade)}
#comments .form-status.error{color:var(--accent)}
#comments .replying-to{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;padding:10px 12px;background:var(--wash);border-left:2px solid var(--jade)}
#comments .hidden,#comments .hp-field{display:none!important}
@media(max-width:640px){#comments .comment-children{margin-left:8px;padding-left:12px}}

.home-image {
	display: flex;
	align-items: center;
	justify-content: center;
}
/* Transparent watercolor vignette follows the homepage grid and color mode. */
.home-image{width:100%;min-width:0;align-self:center}
.home-image img{display:block;width:100%;height:auto;object-fit:contain;filter:var(--home-art-filter,none)}
html[data-theme=dark]{--home-art-filter:brightness(.82) saturate(.75)}
@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){html:not([data-theme]){--home-art-filter:brightness(.82) saturate(.75)}}
@media(max-width:640px){.home-image{width:90%;max-width:340px}}

/* GPX route collection */
.route-section{padding:22px 0 40px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.route-section .eyebrow{margin:0 0 8px}.route-section .section-heading{gap:20px;align-items:end}
.route-intro,.routes-empty{color:var(--muted);font-size:13px}.route-intro{margin:12px 0 24px}
.route-toggle{background:none;border:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);cursor:pointer;white-space:nowrap;padding:6px 0}
.route-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:22px}
.route-card{display:flex;flex-direction:column;position:relative;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:4px;overflow:hidden;min-width:0}
.route-card[hidden],.route-toggle[hidden]{display:none}
.route-map{flex-shrink:0;aspect-ratio:5/3;background:var(--wash);display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);overflow:hidden}
.route-map svg{width:100%;height:100%;display:block}.map-credit{display:block;text-align:right;font-size:9px;padding:2px 6px;background:var(--wash);text-decoration:underline}
.route-details{display:flex;flex-direction:column;flex:1;padding:20px}.route-details>.text-link{align-self:flex-start}.route-country{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:1px;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--jade);margin:0 0 8px}
.route-details h3{font-size:23px;line-height:1.3;margin:0 0 20px;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.route-details dl{display:flex;gap:25px;margin:auto 0 20px}.route-details dt{font-size:10px;color:var(--muted)}.route-details dd{margin:3px 0 0;font-size:15px}
.route-status{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}.route-status:empty{display:none}
@media(max-width:850px){.route-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}}
@media(max-width:560px){.route-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.route-section .section-heading{align-items:start;flex-direction:column;gap:12px}}

/* Keep the expanded navigation comfortable on small screens. */
@media(max-width:800px){.site-header{flex-wrap:wrap}.site-header nav{order:3;width:100%;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;row-gap:20px}}
